Why to go to Lima, Peru? – Part 2

A lot of people think that when visiting Peru they should avoid going to Lima, as it is a dangerous, dirty, noisy, traffic-crazed and air polluted city. To some degree all those adjectives are true. But you shall not judge a rose by its thorns, or you will miss its perfume and the delicacy of its petals. Same goes for the “Ciudad Jardin”, the city of gardens. In the past decade, authorities have made a great effort to “rescue” the historical city center, maintaining it clean, safe and implementing artistic lighting on its old buildings. The result is wonderful, as one may not notice the richness of architecture Lima has to offer. True, it is better to go in a group or with a local or someone who knows which areas, or people, to avoid. If you don’t feel comfortable going downtown Lima, but still want to get that feeling of “time got stuck here” visit the main square of Pueblo Libre district, a 15 minute ride from Miraflores (where tourists tend to flock), for a taste of what Lima must have been in the 1800’s. Narrow streets, old churches and houses protected by forged iron gates are well worth seeing. The use of old style paint colors, mostly pastel pink, salmon, yellow and lavender, give the area a warmth that radiates in spite of the ever present traffic chaos and noise. Venture into the Bar Queirolo, an institution of good drinking and good eating in Peru’s capital, only a couple of blocks from the main plaza. If I dont give directions here is because in Lima you just need to ask any bystander and they will be glad to instuct you, sometimes even escort you to the place. Originally a winery owned by the italian Queirolo family, the large building was turned into a bar and restaurant. You will love the high ceilings with old oak wood shelves packed with wine bottles and the marble tables’ countertops. Ask for a Pisco Sour Doble or even better, a Pisco “mulita” (a quart) and a Butifarra sandwich. At seven soles (two dollars, expensive by Peruvian standards) you get a beautiful bun loaded with home made cooked ham and topped with “salsa criolla”, a tart, slightly spicy combination of uncooked slices of red onion, chopped hot peppers, oil and drops of lime juice. This snack will change your idea of what a sandwich should be. After that you can go visit the nearby church with its ornate altar, check out the old-style craft shops or just stroll around the plaza under the gigantic, globe shaped crowns of the Ficus trees. If you do your research or just are adventurous enough, you will find many such places in Lima, a city not to be missed.